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Two Hearts on Wheels route logo Two Hearts on WheelsJourney across Latin America

OUR JOURNEY TO PARAGUAY

Toward the lands where Beni was born, we had planned this journey, which also included Brazil and Uruguay, as preparation for the great trip we would make across South America. We crossed the famous triple border where Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil meet, passing from Posadas to Encarnación, and thus our journey to San Pedro del Paraná, a calm, warm and sincere town, began. For us, this journey truly became an experience of traveling to Paraguay.

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I. The First Step to the Other Side of the Paraná River — Toward San Pedro del Paraná

The journey began in the coolness of midnight. As we moved from Posadas toward the Paraná River, we were both carrying great excitement.

Özcan was going to discover the places where the woman he loved had been born; Beni, meanwhile, would introduce her family to the man she had chosen to write beautiful stories with, and would show him her country, her land, her roots and her identity.

After Argentina, Paraguay showed its difference as soon as we crossed the border. The first things that surprised him most were the red earth, the lush vegetation and the deep shadows of the tropical trees…

As we crossed the bridges near Encarnación, the branches of the Paraná reflected the sunlight and flowed southward with a slow but majestic force.

The Rohayhu Paraguay sign seen while entering Encarnación
As we entered Encarnación, the words “Rohayhu Paraguay” in Guaraní greeted us; this expression means “I love you, Paraguay.”

The road stretched all the way to San Pedro del Paraná, where Beni was born and raised. This small and charming town is one of the most beautiful examples of rural life in Paraguay.

As we would also see in other cities in the country, all the roads outside the main avenues were paved with stones; the remaining roads were covered with Paraguay’s famous red earth. Her family welcomed us with great sincerity and warmth. The modesty of the town spread a peace that big cities cannot offer.

Together we explored the fields, farms and the land where they lived; we gathered mandioca, harvested the country’s traditional exotic fruits and the coconuts we picked from palm trees. All of this made Özcan feel as if he had entered a completely different world.

We visited an elderly woman whom Beni had known and loved since childhood, and she could not help showing her emotions to her. The woman welcomed them with affection; they talked, took photos and shared that simple yet luminous side of daily life.

The two days Özcan spent in San Pedro del Paraná became a real window for understanding Paraguay: sincere people, a simple life and a powerful nature.

A happy moment in nature.
A happy moment in nature.
Beni's father tending the field, accompanied by the dog.
Beni’s father tending the field, accompanied by the dog.

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Afterward, we continued east toward the border city of Ciudad del Este.

II. Ciudad del Este — Waterfalls, Parks and the Chaos of a Border City

Our aim there was to visit and discover the city.

Saltos del Monday — Not Just a Waterfall, but a Park from Beginning to End

Our first stop was Saltos del Monday, one of the country’s most impressive natural beauties. This was not just a waterfall; it was a huge park full of trails, viewing terraces, walking paths and a living forest where hundreds of birds lived. As the Monday River fell between enormous rocks, it threw mist and rainbows into the air. We walked along the paths, listened to the power of the water and lost ourselves in the vastness of the landscape.

Parque Tacurú Pucú — The Land of Giant Anthills

Our next stop was Parque Tacurú Pucú. In Guaraní, “Tacurú Pucú” means “large anthill.” The park was full of these impressive reddish formations created by millions of ants.

We walked along the park’s trails, rode bicycles and talked on the banks of the Paraná River. Far from the noise of the city, it was a calm oasis.

We ended that afternoon by drinking mate on the banks of the Paraná River. Far from the noise of the city, it was a calm oasis.

The Shopping City — Paraguay’s Commercial Heart

Thanks to its low taxes, Ciudad del Este is one of the largest commercial centers in South America. Every day, thousands of Brazilians and Argentinians cross the border to shop.

We walked around the city center, visited the famous Shopping París and many electronics and clothing stores. The variety, the prices and the energy of the atmosphere truly surprised us.

Asunción — Between History and City Life

As we set out from Ciudad del Este toward Asunción, we drove through green landscapes and gentle hills. In the middle of the road, we decided to take a break in one of the most beautiful towns of the Cordillera region: Itacurubí de la Cordillera.

Itacurubí de la Cordillera — A Break in the Garden of the Republic

We went to the park where the town’s colorful sign was located. We sat under the trees, enjoyed the light breeze and left the tiredness of the road behind.

Caacupé — Paraguay’s Spiritual Heart

From Itacurubí, we continued toward Caacupé, Paraguay’s spiritual capital. When we arrived in the city, the bright blue dome of the Basilica of the Virgin Mary greeted us, dominating the whole valley.

We walked around the square, climbed the steps, explored the surroundings and watched the calm movements of the pilgrims. Bells were ringing in the distance, and the wind carried with it an atmosphere of deep peace.

Caacupé surrounded us with its own particular serenity, as if time flowed more slowly there. After visiting the basilica and admiring its architecture, we continued on our way to Asunción.

A calm moment in Caacupé's central park.
A calm moment in Caacupé’s central park.

Panteón Nacional de los Héroes — Paraguay’s Historical Heart

Our first visit in Asunción was the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes, a magnificent mausoleum dedicated to the country’s heroes. Its white dome and the solemn atmosphere of the square carried a deep sense of history.

On the same street there was a temporary fair. People were eating at street stalls and buying handicrafts and local products.

Özcan tried the famous asadito for the first time; he ate the small skewered pieces of meat with great pleasure.

Asunción’s Costanera — Where the River and the City Breathe Together

As evening fell, we headed toward the Costanera, the waterfront where the city meets the river. As the sun sank behind the horizon, we walked slowly beside the water; the sky had taken on pink and golden tones.

We sat in front of the large sign that read “YO ASU” and watched the Paraguay River flow silently. We drank mate, listened to the wind and let the calm of the landscape surround us. It was one of those moments when we felt time had stopped.

General panoramic view of Asunción's Costanera
Panoramic view of Asunción’s Costanera

Palacio de López — Paraguay’s Presidential Palace

With its pink facade, Palacio de López was shining under the sun. There was almost no security, so taking photos was quite easy.

Then we decided to go and sit at a small café directly across from the palace. We drank tea with a view looking straight at the presidential building. It was truly a peaceful moment.

Panoramic view of Palacio de López
Panoramic view of Palacio de López, Paraguay’s Presidential Palace.

Monumento a la Paz Victoriosa

Paraguay is an almost completely flat country. That is why the Monumento a la Paz Victoriosa is one of the few points from which you can see Asunción, the river and Argentine lands from above.

The monument’s impressive architecture and broad stairways immediately stood out. We rested there and enjoyed the view while drinking mate.

This monument symbolizes the end of a painful war and the beginning of peace.

The indigenous statue at the base of the monument
The indigenous statue beneath the monument.

Return to Ciudad del Este and the Road to Brazil

After our stay in Asunción, we returned to Ciudad del Este and continued our journey toward Brazil.

The days we spent in Paraguay were full of nature, family, culture, walks, laughter and discoveries. But more than anything, they were the first real steps into the new life we were building together.

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If you would like to read more general information about the country, the Paraguay article on Wikipedia you can take a look.


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